The commonality is that the restaurants share a circus theme. But Manhattan’s Le Cirque, which reopened just off East 58th street in 2006, takes a more understated tack: the famed circus tent arching over the 27-foot-high dining room is now sleeker and more metaphorical: a curve of pale fabric. There are sail-like amber curtains, gleaming dark wood surfaces, and light fixtures resembling upside-down parasols. The Las Vegas version, on the other hand, has a silk, big-top tent in rich, stripy reds and golds and vibrant circus murals.

Fernando captured the charismatic Sirio Maccioni presiding over the Manhattan dining room. Sirio is ably abetted by sons Marco and Mauro in New York, while son Mario runs the empire at Bellagio. Both Le Cirques offer classic French cuisine with a few rustic Italian touches. We dug into warm Maine lobster salad with a crispy herb croquette and white asparagus, Muscovy duck with orange honey-glazed magret and leg confit, veal tenderloin with artichokes and chanterelles. The only question a diner must ask: would you prefer to dine lakeside at Bellagio or in a suave old-school Manhattan shrine? Both restaurants offer
as much caviar as any soul could desire.

In any case, we got a slow start the next morning; I can’t imagine why. After a day in Central Park followed by more time in the shops of Madison Avenue and Soho, it was time for another night of exquisite gluttony.

We’d sufficiently recovered to anticipate appetizers at Aureole. Its very name means celestial crown, a golden halo, and we were ready to earn back our own virtuous halos. Charlie Palmer’s restaurant is timeless, full of floral arrangements that echo the market freshness of the menu.

We noshed on yellowfin tuna tartar with crème fraiche and tobiko miso vinaigrette, with flavors so clean they nearly sang. We dove into a perfect plate of hams, sausages, pâtés and addictive cream cheese puffs, sprightly smoked salmon with a blood orange vinaigrette, and soft shell crabs with brown butter. The menu changes constantly, but if you’re feeling adventurous, try the six-course tasting menu. Everything we tried felt as though the chef had been influenced by the best of what he’d found at the Union Square Green market that morning.