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By Lena Katz
Photography By Marshall Williams
Remember your first shot of Cuervo? You threw it back
as your friends cheered you on, chased it with a lick of
salt and a wedge of lime, and did your best to choke it
down? Well, it’s time to put that bittersweet memory behind
you because, just like you, tequila is all grown up.
Just take a look around Isla Mexican Kitchen and Tequila
Bar at Treasure Island, where a lovely “tequila goddess”
helps you choose from the vast selection, guides you through
tequila tasting flights, and prepares their top-shelf Goddess
Elixir tableside. Check out Border Grill at Mandalay Bay,
where rare premium tequilas accompany the acclaimed Latin
cuisine of Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger. Or enjoy
the more than 150-bottle selection at Diego at MGM Grand.
TEQUILA 101
Though tequila production only became standardized
and regulated in 1974, tequila, in one form or another, is
an integral part of Mexican culture. The region of Jalisco,
in central Mexico, has grown agave and used it to make
liquor since Colonial times. In fact, artifacts from the
Guachimontones archaeological dig suggest that indigenous
tribes were making agave wine long before that.
When the government of Mexico decided to make tequila
an “official” regulated spirit, the local tequila producers
had to prove that tequila had originated in Jalisco and was
completely unique to the region. After they did, Jalisco, and
four outlying municipalities, became the official “appellation
of origin” meaning, it is the only place in the world where
tequila can be produced.
Today, tequila production still centers around the tiny town
of Tequila, located about 30 minutes outside Guadalajara. All
around Tequila, you can see the fields of blue agave forming
a gray blue carpet that reaches the foothills of the Sierra
Madre. In the town itself, distilleries and liquor stores line
the tiny streets, while people mingle in the town square.
The basic regulations surrounding tequila production
are fairly strict: It can only be grown or produced in the
appellation of origin. Only blue agave is permitted. After
being fermented, the agave/yeast/water liquor, called
“must,” needs to be distilled twice. And Añejo, a type of
tequila, must be aged in oak barrels.
Beyond that, the rules loosen up somewhat, allowing more
forward-thinking or marketing-savvy producers to try
different strategies to make the smoothest, most delicious
tequila on the market. Some distill the tequila three times.
Some use only oak barrels from a particular bourbon distiller,
and some replace them after one batch, even though it’s not
a requirement.
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