By Karen Bryant
“The feeling, the atmosphere, is somewhere
between the heart of the Mediterranean and
New York City and the menu is based on the
food that is found where olives grow: Europe,
Africa, Asia,” says celebrity chef Todd English,
who has been featured on The Food Channel
and won multiple James Beard awards.
Chef English has an Olives restaurant at
Bellagio and four others in metropolitan cities:
Boston, Aspen, New York, and D.C. He had just
opened the restaurant, and I was lucky enough
to be invited to join friends at the farm table in
a private room next to the open kitchen.
The new Olives is rustic, with wide, oak
ceiling beams, weathered wood tabletops,
crackled wall covering, warm tones, and bronze
chandeliers that look like olive branches.
At the center of the main dining room is an
eight-foot-tall bottle of olive oil from which
customers can fill their own olive oil bottles.
There were 10 in our group and we tried just
about everything on the menu, which offers
Olives’ signature house-made pastas and
flatbreads as well as traditional Mediterranean
dishes. We also had a couple of cocktails
(I highly recommend the pomegranate martini!).
Chef English himself paid us a quick visit and
told us what he’s particularly proud of at his
newest Olives: a huge, wood-burning oven that
he helped design. The oven was made in
Australia and shipped to Beau Rivage. This
location is the only one of English’s restaurants
to have this type of oven, and there are no others
like it anywhere in the world.
After dinner, we headed next door to
BR Prime, another of Beau Rivage’s new
restaurants, for a few cocktails. Here, the scene is
sophisticated. Vice President of Food and Beverage
George Goldhoff cites the timeless look and
feel, calling it “a sacrosanct steakhouse.”
George Corchis explained the idea
behind the design. “You can build a steakhouse thousands of different ways. We
chose to use deep, dark colors, rich reds and a
tremendous wood flooring. The design is very
high-end and masculine. There are gigantic
glass cellars with thousands of bottles of wine
displayed in the restaurant,” said Corchis. The idea
behind the floor-to-ceiling wine towers, which
hold 3,500 bottles, was to create not so much a
look of a wine rack but a mosaic of
the epitome of high-end wine.
Executive Chef Joe Friel, who
lived in New York for 24 years,
says that BR Prime’s warm colors
and Rat Pack-era music in the
background have a calming effect
on him and that the whole feel is
very metropolitan. It transports
him back to his years working at
the famed 21 Club in New York.
This place is undeniably beautiful. The big
attraction here is what comes from the kitchen,
which Chef Friel designed: Only two% of all
beef produced in the United States is certified
prime grade by the USDA and BR Prime serves
nothing but this premium grade beef.
BR Prime has been getting rave reviews for
its seafood selections too, namely the
Louisiana crabcakes and Hawaiian swordfish.
Chef Friel’s favorites are the scallop appetizer,
lobster tempura and cold seafood platter with
three kinds of oysters, king crab, Maine
lobster, and jumbo lump crabmeat served
French bistro style on an elevated platter. He
also recommends the steak tartar, prepared just
as it was when Friel worked at the 21 Club.
Corchis couldn’t be more pleased with the
reception BR Prime is enjoying. “BR Prime has
surpassed all expectations,” he said. “The
service is unbeatable, no matter where you go
in this country, and the food is extraordinary.”
The third of the resort’s new gourmet dining
establishments is Jia (Japanese for “beautiful”).
Corchis jokingly says Jia has multiple
personalities because of its many facets: it
offers three distinct dining experiences,
serving sushi, teppanyaki and cuisine from
Thailand, Japan, China, and Vietnam.