The Journey from Prison Cook to Executive Chef at Bellagio
By Alex Cole
Q. How have your street skills helped you in the kitchen?
A. Growing up around gangsters and thugs, I had the ability to
motivate and convince people to do it my way. I knew how
to understand the workforce. Most of the people in the
kitchens were Latino and Black ex-cons, down on their luck
guys who came from poverty. I knew how to praise them,
but still tell them they needed to get stronger. If a guy
wasn’t doing something right, I’d say “Homie, you’re a
great sauté cook and your vegetables are fabulous, but if
you change it this way, it would be 10 times better.” I
don’t just beat him up.
I was a natural leader. I drew respect when I walked into
the kitchen. My vice president here said when you walk in
a kitchen, the leader of the kitchen should stand out.
Q. You’ve created a distinctive style of cooking you call
posh urban. What is it?
A. Posh urban was born because Robert Gadsby was on me
so much about cooking soul food that I said I’m going
to redefine it and put a California twist on it. Posh urban
is Southern cuisine redefined, dishes like Sweet Potato
Pot au Feu with Smoked Collard Greens and Turkey Confit,
Cornbread-crusted Lamb Chops or Watermelon served with
a Blackberry Gastrique. It’s Dirty Fried Chicken, inspired by
the Buttermilk-soaked Fried Chicken that I learned from
Friendly Womack in prison.
Q. You run a 24-hour restaurant that serves about 3,000
meals a day. How do you keep the food tasting special?
A. My staff respects me and does a fabulous job. Everything
we do here, we make in-house. We don’t buy anything
from outside. We have a butcher shop that handles
our meat, a main kitchen that produces our marinara,
peppercorn, merlot red wine sauce, our Alfredo, and
barbecue sauce. We even bought a franchise of La Brea
Bakery that does all of our bread. And we have a
world-renowned pastry chef, Jean-Philippe Maury. Most
of our chefs at Bellagio are Culinary Institute of America
grads and most of the cooks are really seasoned.
We work hard at making sure every customer has a dining
experience they remember. We’re one of the few cafés
that turn a big profit. This isn’t a place where you lost all
your money so they give you a comp. We take pride in our
cuisine.
Q. You write that it’s disappointing that more Black chefs
aren’t given the opportunity to cook in top restaurants
around the country. What is it like working at Bellagio?
A. Bellagio is the pinnacle of my career. Terry Lanni,
Chairman & Chief Executive Officer of MGM MIRAGE, did a
bold move in early 2000 with diversity and paved the way
for me to come into Bellagio and become Executive Chef
within three months. They really opened doors for me.
I’ve flourished here. It makes me proud to walk through
this building with my Bellagio chef coat on. I call it the
Bentley of them all.
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