Restaurants that Sizzle

Review: Muriel Stevens

The opening of Craftsteak at MGM Grand heralded the arrival of a new kind of steak-house. It provides a comfortable, inviting atmosphere with many natural elements. Wood and leather abound. A stunning bar and lounge is the smoking area and offers the complete à la carte menu. One barely notices the considerable size of the dining room; it so cleverly flows into each dining section.

Craftsteak embraces Chef Colicchio’s philosophy—seek out the freshest and the best ingredients, then use them with respect for their uniqueness. Only Craftsteak offers both grain-fed and grass-fed steaks. The menu changes daily so that the best of each season is always represented.

The kitchen’s take on every dish is creative and original. French Bouchot mussels, wild, not farmed, are flown in daily during the season. These plump, sweet mussels are roasted. They arrive in a copper casserole swimming in their own juices enhanced with white wine and herbs. The aroma and flavor are intoxicating.

Side dishes are glorious. Roasted Jerusalem artichokes, English peas, brilliantly green sautéed spinach, a crusty leek gratin, a mountain of fried onion rings, and porcini risotto were among the selection of side dishes when I dined at Craftsteak recently, but these too, change daily. Boneless quail is available as a first course or main course.

Chef Christopher Albrecht, a Craft alumni, is an exceptional toque, working side-by-side with Colicchio who appears regularly at MGM Grand. The affable chefs visit with diners when time allows.

Reminiscent of a convivial Chicago chop house, The Steak House at Treasure Island is as relaxed and companionable as a good friend. There is an energy here that starts at the door and continues throughout a meal. Perhaps this instant connection is inspired by the congenial staff who welcomes each guest and continues to care about them until they leave.

Chef William Jacob has added his own spin to the usual
steak-house cuisine. The hand-carved icebox appetizer (think igloo)
I shared was perched atop a mound of crushed ice and filled with fresh crab claws, lobster and an assortment of other fresh seafood.

Oysters are a specialty of the house. The exquisite Fanny Bay bivalves, from the Pacific Northwest, that were being featured were so plump and fresh. A variety of sauces were offered with the seafood. My choice was mignonette.

Bone-in steaks are always featured. The bone-in New York steak was excellent and so was the cumin and pumpkin seed-crusted Florida sea bass, one of the specialties of the day.

I couldn’t resist having a taste of the two-pound crackling pork shank accompanied with a zesty jalapeño applesauce. The meaty shank is slow-roasted. Then the skin is removed and rendered to make the cracklings. This hearty adventure is delicious.

Side dishes are so appealing. The chef does a haystack of sweet potatoes and russet-potato shoestring fries that are much too good. And I’d never turn down the macaroni and cheese casserole made with white cheddar, Asiago, Parmesan, Mozzarella, and Monterey Jack cheeses. All of the side dishes are sized to share.

Desserts are sheer madness. Portions are table-size. Such zany temptations, such conversation pieces! Imagine a mutant Ding Dong—that’s a reasonable description of The Steak House’s triple chocolate, cream-filled cupcake for two, topped with a truffle. I laughed as I indulged and enjoyed every decadent bite.

Las Vegas steak-houses; what will they think of next.