Restaurants that Sizzle

Review: Muriel Stevens

Long before Las Vegas became a fine dining destination, it was known as a meat-and-potatoes town catering to the cowboys and dudes who fancied Western grub. The Wild West influence is long gone, but the beef is better than ever.

The traditional steak-house still thrives even in the rarefied atmosphere of this more sophisticated Las Vegas, yet celebrated chefs and new steak-house concepts continue to attract chic diners who appreciate the evolution.

Samba Brazilian Steakhouse is a colorful, casual Brazilian-style steak-house at The Mirage. Unlike the cowboys (gauchos) of Brazil who cooked their meals on an open fire in the field, Samba Brazilian Steakhouse chefs prepare the savory fare.

Churrasco (barbecue) is popular throughout Brazil. Restaurants dedicated to meats cooked on a spit (rodizio) are dubbed churrascarias. Chef Ruben Lopez serves up a true rodizio experience, as well as an à la carte selection prepared on the grill. However you choose to dine, Samba Brazilian Steakhouse is a carnavale of food and merriment.

Rodizio dinner begins with salad and breads. Four or more side dishes arrive and then comes the showcase skewers. There is no particular order to the food service. Slow-cooked sausages, turkey breast roulade, chicken, sirloin steak, baby-back pork ribs, ginger-soy flank steak, slow-roasted pork and fresh pineapple, and Atlantic Coast salmon come and go as you please. And just when you’ve reached satiation, along comes a new skewer to invigorate, yet again, the taste buds. For the most enjoyment, pace yourself.

To not order an à la carte appetizer and a tropical libation before dinner is to miss one of the pleasures of dining at Samba Brazilian Steakhouse. Have the beef empanada, small meat-filled pastries with crisp crusts paired with a Caipirinha made with Cachaca, Brazilian sugar-cane liquor or a classic Mojito.

Desserts are a mix of whimsy and tradition created with bananas, coconut and other tropical touches. Crème brûlée is topped with a cookie palm tree atop a macaroon base—a sweet end to the sensational and eclectic experience.

Arguably the most beautiful ode to the genre to be found anywhere is Prime Steakhouse at Bellagio. Prime is the creation of New York Chef and Restaurateur Jean-Georges Vongerichten.

Prime’s dining room is posh, yet warm and inviting. I love being able to enjoy a lush butternut squash soup redolent of nutmeg and striped with batons of black trumpet mushrooms served with distinctive style. Its color is as flamboyant as an artist’s palette; the balance of flavor and texture is exceptional. Sip slowly, enjoy the moment. Now to indulge with my favorite nourishment of beef, Prime’s New York steak. Prime’s chefs are masters. Order a steak rare, but warm at the center and so it will be … every time.

The well-balanced menu features a roasted rib-eye steak for two, rack of lamb, live Maine lobster, tamarind-glazed Peking duck, and heart-warming braised short ribs that always make me happy. Steak-house or not, Prime’s selections have panache. Consider the stylish service of mustards and sauces that accompany the meats. The zesty mustard selection includes violet mustard, a new culinary conceit that includes the flavor and aroma of the flower, and vibrant sauces—classic Béarnaise, peppercorn, assertive shallot and garlic, and piquant home-made ketchup. Sides are equally as sensational with offerings such as truffle mashed potatoes, chick pea fries and creamed spinach.

If I could have only one of Prime’s luscious desserts it would be the seductive lemon meringue tart with crushed raspberries and ginger ice cream—it’s divine!

Prime’s impeccable service and food are benchmarks for all who aspire to reach this lofty level.