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Story By Heidi Schiller
The best Asian restaurants create an
irresistible convergence of cuisine
and décor to virtually transport
their guests to the other side of
the world, even if only for one magical
evening. Inside MGM MIRAGE hotels,
that special kind of journey is often just
around the corner.
Some of the finest Chinese regional
cuisine in the city can be found at the
tables of Moongate at The Mirage, Pearl
at MGM Grand and Noodles or Jasmine
at Bellagio, each with its own treasure
chest of fantastic signature specialties.
What's more, all have mastered the
fine art of satisfying not only Western
vs. Asian tastes, but also the varying
preferences within both.
One of the greatest discoveries was
servers that are not only gracious and
knowledgeable, but also talented at
accommodating both folks in a hurry and
those inclined to linger over course after
course. My dining experience unfolds
in a context of fine Asian design that is
distinct at each of the four restaurants.
Moongate
The sharply polished plank walkway
that leads to Moongate widens out to
deck-size at the doorway, where clever
lighting and colorful floral arrangements
give the illusion of entering from
outdoors. Executive Chef Billy Cheng's
cooking experiences in China, Hong
Kong, Canada, and LA give his
Cantonese and Szechuan menu extra
flair. Abalone, a rare find locally, checks
in here as an appetizer platter and four
clay-pot combo dishes. In a nod to the
varied crowd drawn to Moongate, Cheng
offers several seafood selections sashimi
style, sautéed or steamed and all equally
delicious.
My favorite dish, the hot and sour soup,
is a very popular choice and that's easy
to understand after just one spoonful of
this complex and deeply flavored medley.
As for chef's specialties that bring folks
back time and again, he singles out the
beef tenderloin with asparagus and the
mandarin pork, a take on sweet-and-sour
without the deep-frying.
General Manager Thiem (Tim) Tran
says for those seeking a purely Asian
flavor, the regular menu features an
appetizer platter of Far East favorites
and also live fish, usually Goby or rock
cod. There's also a separate Asian menu.
No matter what your main course, you
will want to conclude your evening with
Moongate's famous "red bean" ice
cream dessert.
Pearl
The ambiance of Pearl is a
contemporary setting with vast planes
of cool colors and bold splashes of red
surrounded by a sophisticated palette of
black and ivory furniture, for a strikingly
handsome setting.
The menu at Pearl tells you
immediately you are in for a wonderful
evening of dining with an array of
Chinese dishes such as sharkfin soup,
live seafood and clay-pot dishes. For
Western-friendly choices, Pearl offers
excellent options as well, such as clams in
broth and a number of veggie selections.
I dabbled on both sides of the world by
sampling a little of each.
The main menu showcases what
General Manager Sam Chung calls a
purist, contemporary manifestation of "East meets West." It comes to life as
a roster of elegantly prepared seafood,
poultry and meat plus such signature
dishes as the superb almond-crusted
lemon chicken, all preceded by a couple
of tasty gifts from the Chef.
An enlightening way to step into
both worlds is with the "tasting
menu" crafted by Executive Chef, Kai
Wa Yau, who comes to this kitchen
from Empress Court, named one of
the "10 Best Chinese Restaurants
in the United States." His sevencourse
extravaganza starts with the
signature appetizer of spider prawns
and abalone (yes, here too!) with
jellyfish, and progresses through a
bounty of crab and corn soup, wokfried
beef tenderloin, Maine lobster
fried rice, and more. To conclude your
dining, a roll-up cart presents Frenchstyle
tempters from the restaurant's own
pastry chef. Warm Valrhona chocolate
cake with jasmine ice cream or a combo
plate of lemon tart, rum cake and
chocolate crème brûlée? The choice was
difficult for sure.
Noodles
On the slightly more casual end is
Noodles, with its name commemorated
in Chinese characters in the floor
tiles and also in an amazing display of
seemingly every kind of noodle on earth
tucked into jars standing lid to lid along
back-lit shelves.
The scene is busy, bustling, full of
noisy fun that eclipses the crooned tunes
of Sinatra, Cole and the like.
If you like your food fast, Noodles
delivers, but the quality is nothing but
top notch as the star ingredient takes
center stage in a dazzling array of hot
noodles, cold noodles and soup noodles,
with meat or not, spicy or not, and in a
travelogue of international flavors.
Noodles' authentic Malaysian cuisine
features rice dishes, rice porridges (some
with that elusive abalone), BBQ items,
and the assembly known as Hainanese
Chicken. That's a bowl of soup, a bowl of
rice, tender chicken topped with carrot
shreds and cilantro, plus soy sauce, hot
sauce and pickled ginger all nestled in a
specially designed platter.
For dessert, Noodles refreshes the
palate that's probably just savored a very
substantial dish with a nice selection of
fresh fruit and fresh fruit sorbets.
If you are hitting the tables into the
wee-hours, noshers will be happy to
know that Noodles serves its full menu
until 2 a.m. nightly.
Jasmine
Across the Bellagio casino floor,
Jasmine welcomes a well-dressed throng
to a haven of quiet beauty, symbolized
by its butterfly and floral motif. Guests
enter through a wide corridor that is
home to both the congenial hostess and a
handsome, compact bar that curves into
an artifact-laden anteroom.
Just beyond an explosion of flowers lies
the serene, window-walled dining room,
fantastically tiered for viewing Lake
Bellagio and its magnificent fountain
shows. Your brocade-attired servers
move gently through the room, with
a seeming sixth sense about what's
needed and when.
Cantonese cuisine finds new forms
of expression here, thanks to the Hong
Kong-inspired modern interpretations of
Executive Chef Philip Lo, named one of "America's Outstanding Chefs."
Lo's gourmet kitchen offers a pair of
tasting menus, or individual selections
of upscale entrées, vegetarian dishes,
appetizers, and soups, with a truly
unusual entry in the latter category. My
meal began with yummy clam soup that
warmed my body and soul with a lemon
and wine-infused broth that harbors
Manila clams and tiny mushrooms, all
served in a young coconut tender enough
to be scooped out with spoonfuls of this
heavenly creation.
Lo also prepares a very special chicken
dish that must be special-ordered. The
four-hour process involves removing
the skin intact, dicing and cooking all
the meat, mixing the meat with sweet
rice, sausage, and seasonings, stuffing
this mixture back into the skin, and
roasting until it's golden and crackling.
Mmmm. But according to General
Manager Tony Siu, Lo's version of Peking
duck is the best in town, and that would
be hard to deny.
To conclude my meal, I treated myself
to the specialty, a signature chocolate
upon chocolate creation of Bellagio
Executive Pastry Chef Jean-Philippe
Maury, whose creds include "Best Pastry
Chef in France" and a gold medal from
the most recent World Team Pastry
Competition.
Actually, it's all sweet from start
to finish and beyond because these
exceptional Asian restaurants serve
not only fine cuisine, but also lasting
memories of a special culinary journey.
| AdditionalAsianEats |
The Grand
Wok at MGM Grand, a culinary cross-section of
Chinese, Japanese, Thai, Korean, and Vietnamese is
the place to dine when your cravings for Asian cannot
be ignored.
Chin Chin Cafe at New
York-New York
serves traditional Chinese food in a bright, colorful and exciting cafe
setting. |
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