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Return to American Comfort Cooking |
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 Story:
Cindy Bodart Burke Photography: O'Gara/Bissell How very “last century” it was for adventuresome diners to gather at the big city restaurant-du-jour seeking culinary fashion—the latest fish carpaccio, stylish vegetable mousses and foie gras pastries were paraded from the kitchen like gustatory couture. But for many Americans, the holy grail of cooking is far more simple and authentic, speaking to the satisfaction of a deeper hunger. We want our food to mean something to us—as familiar and as welcome as an old friend. In Las Vegas, at three top restaurants, chefs pass over fancy techniques and imported ingredients to serve up comforting American-style dishes. As Chef John Schenk, who came to Nectar at Bellagio from Clementine in New York City, says, “Comfort foods have a strong emotional component. It’s really your belly making the decision,” he laughs, “not your mind.” At Nectar, Schenk’s culinary direction has been inspired by traditional Southern cooking. This translates to the Nectar menu with such fare as Buffalo Mahi-Mahi with Cornmeal Hush Puppies, Collard Greens and Toasted Corn, blending grilled tropical fish with traditional Southern fixin’s. Food snobs might be surprised that a chef would enjoy such humble ingredients, but he laughs, “There shouldn’t be a rating of food; there is a place for it in American cuisine. And I love it all.”
Tom Colicchio, who opened New York’s Gramercy Tavern with partner Danny Meyer in 1994, recently opened Craftsteak at MGM Grand. A zealous seeker of quality ingredients, he prepares his exquisite raw materials simply, yet masterfully, focusing on the essence of each component, not complex presentation. Colicchio calls his style Contemporary American Cooking. “The food comes first,” he says. “I buy the best ingredients, and when people ask, ‘Why does this taste so good?’ I tell them it’s because of where it is grown and how it is grown.” Exhibiting a wider scope than the typical steak-house, Craftsteak features velvety Kobe Beef along with unusual cuts such as Braised Beef Cheeks or Pork Belly. Diners can also find an excellent selection of coastal seafood including crisply flavored, briny Raw Oysters; Seared Sea Scallops; Roasted Lobster Tails; and tiny, sweet Buchot Mussels. Also at MGM Grand, is NOBHILL. It is a showcase for the food of the San Francisco Bay Area. NOBHILL’s focus is coaxing extraordinary flavors out of home-cooked staples such as its sophisticated take on mashed potatoes which elevates the simple dish to new heights. Every entrée is complemented by whipped potato service which dishes up fluffy spuds infused with foie gras, truffles or other sumptuous ingredients. There is also a delicious irony in comfort food dishes such as Lobster Potpie, Double Crust Apple Pie and even a Rootbeer Float (built from home-made rootbeer sorbet and sassafras ice cream) served at Bellagio’s Aqua. Most people are ready to splurge when they visit NOBHILL or Aqua and there are plenty of comfort foods sprinkled throughout the menus to enjoy! American comforts, American classics—dressed up for a night on the town. Isn’t that what Las Vegas is all about? For restaurant reservations, please call: Nectar or Aqua at Bellagio
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