Story: Kerry Sharp
Photography courtesy of NT Tourist Commission

We edge to within a few yards of a prehistoric man-eater, resting disturbingly still in full view across the banks of Yellow Water Billabong. All 20 of us sit fascinated by the gaping jaws, enormous teeth and stealthy yellow eyes focused in our direction. This lethal hunter—crocodylus porosus—the saltwater crocodile, once hunted its own to the brink of extinction. Today, 50,000 of them thrive in Australia’s Northern Territory. With lightning speed, the “saltie” disappears beneath the lily pads, leaving barely a ripple on this hauntingly beautiful waterway of Kakadu National Park.

“Saltie” shares his space with 280 species of bird including magpie geese, whistling ducks, brolgas, jabiru, and the comb-crested jacana or Jesus bird, as well as water buffalos and the sizeable barramundi—the fighting fish that lures anglers and our croc to Northern Territory waterways. Kakadu, an Outback icon with a World Heritage listing, is one of Australia’s largest and most significant national parks in terms of the outstanding natural and cultural features it protects. People call it “God’s own country.” It is 120 miles by road or a half-hour light aircraft flight from Darwin, the Northern Territory’s cosmopolitan capital and home of MGM Grand Darwin.

Recently refurbished, the Mobil Five-Star, luxury beachfront hotel and casino features boutique-style rooms set in verdant tropical surrounds, a Las Vegas-style casino, award-winning restaurants, a pristine beach and swimming pool. Adjacent to the property are a nine-hole golf course and the famous Mindil Beach Sunset Markets. The MGM Grand Darwin staff can help you hire a suitable car and pre-book tours tailored to your budget. Some adventures include four-wheel drive and fishing expeditions, guided bush walks, Aboriginal culture experiences, and flights over the awe-inspiring Arnhem Land escarpment.

As for the park itself, there are overnight accommodations ranging from bush tent camping to the unique Gagudju Crocodile Holiday Inn, architecturally designed in the shape of a giant crocodile. While embracing the Kakadu experience, you’re sure to appreciate the park’s rich Aboriginal culture, which dates back at least 25,000 years and is entrenched in the Aboriginal Dreamtime stories of the creation of the earth.

Balmy dry season conditions from April - October make this the most pleasant time to visit. As a hiker, you will have access to towering ravines and gorges, perfect for exploring monsoon rainforests. Kakadu rarely sees rain for six - eight months, but during the wet season, flooding closes many four-wheel-drive roads – just when Kakadu is at its spectacular best. The only sure way to see the sights is to take a scenic light plane or helicopter flight from the other attractions that remain open year-round. The sweeping valley is green and lush. Go for a swim under the famous, giant Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls or dip into the Gunlom plunge pools. A word of caution — safe swimming holes are rare in Kakadu. Saltwater Crocodiles are a major risk. Don’t ignore the warning signs.

Kakadu is a primeval rainforest and Australian national treasure where time means nothing. Allow yourself enough days to explore!